Sunday 14 January 2018

A short dream and a long dream - about life


The short dream
 
In this dream, I am doing the ward round in West Wing. There is a small African boy (?Nigerian? Not sure) in Bed 18 and he is surrounded by crying relatives. I am standing next to bed 10 and wondering if I should go over there, but the head nurse manages to discourage me. I continue with the ward round and by the time I get to bed 12, the wailing becomes louder and louder. I look over and see the child is dying. 

Then I realise that the end of the world is here, and it will end with the death of that child. Then I wake up.


The long dream
 
In this dream I am with a group of friends and one of them is my boyfriend – a man that I have never seen before. We are riding motorbikes around East Timor and stopping randomly in villages, those dusty places where there is little more than a handful of thatched huts and children playing with animals in the dirt.

In one such non-descript village we could see the ocean, not too far away. The road was windy and descended from the village to the ocean. Some villagers called things out to us but we could not understand them. As we neared the ocean, it was clear what the warning was – the water came very close to the road and as the waves washed up, actually over the road.

I can’t remember how many motorbikes we had but we were the last ones through. There was a small downhill just before the water started, so it felt like we ran into the water at full speed. It was surprisingly cold as it washed over us, and soon we could see nothing at all. The road fell away and we were actually glidng through the water. For a moment it was almost like we were driving underwater and somehow the motorbike could part water, but in a split second we had been washed away. I was far far out in the ocean, and I could not see anyone.

I gulped down several mouthfuls of salty seawater and started to panic. My legs stayed faithful to me and I managed to paddle out to the shore again. There I saw my boyfriend standing under a coconut tree, staring into the distance. None of the others were there. They had gotten through and we were the only ones left, now with no means of transport.

We walked back up the hill to the village, struggling in the suddenly stifling air. We saw a shop which had a Chinese sign “closed” on it. I saw through the grates that there were people inside, but they did not answer our calls. We walked around and all the people seemed to have disappeared. Finally we found a man running a fruit stall, but something immediately disturbed me about him. I had a quick flashback to another scene, where all of us together had escaped some baddies – and that man was him. I pulled urgently at my boyfriend’s sleeve, but he was chitchatting in a friendly way with the fruit man.

The sense of panic rose in me, not dissimilar to when I was in the water but with a far greater urgency. I could not believe my eyes as the fruit man suddenly stood up, gripped my boyfriend in a choke-hold and dragged him away. I chased after them but they were gone.

The next scene cuts to me living alone in a thatched hut, not far from the ocean where we had almost drowned. I walk up the road, past the village, to a rudimentary building which is the local prison. I wonder what our crime is as I pass food silently to my boyfriend. I wonder how long I have been in this village already, getting up, eating and visiting my boyfriend in jail.

What is the purpose of life? I think, and wake up.


Thursday 11 January 2018

Barney 2.0

Barney had a near death experience when I went to Sri Lanka and the fridge broke while I was away. When I got back he had a thick coat of grey sludge on top and smelled awful - like a cross between rotten and uraemia. I gagged so much when I opened the lid that I almost threw him out, but I took him to the research fridge at work to have a R&R holiday.



I fed him with lots of fresh flour and sure enough, he came back.



Since Barney re-incarnated as Barney 2.0 he has made incredible loaves. Something about survival of the fittest must be the explanation - all the yeast that survived must be of higher quality.

I'm also enamoured with the sourdough book I bought - there are so many options online that I finally decided to get one of them. Emilie Raffa's Artisan Sourdough made simple is fantastic - it seems to work just perfectly for me.


 Barxmas - made with the "everyday sourdough" recipe from Emilie's book.

Barxmas is named so because I took him to the Christmas party at Jess's. Nothing better than freshly sliced bread, still warm & crusty with butter. 


Barrah - made with the "high hydration sourdough" recipe from Emilie's book. 

Barrah gets his name as he is dedicated to my extremely talented friend Sarah who had a dinner party at her house. Who knew four grownups (combined age well over 100) could have so much fun with board games! 

I'm still looking for those elusive humongous holes, but many have commented that the rise & crumb is pretty good already! Barrah rose really well and split right open.  He is a 1/3 rye, 2/3 white loaf which is probably my favourite flavour & crumb combination.


The next day I had Barrah with some homemade hummus, salad and leftover walnuts (too greedy with the next loaf). The best simple lunch ever!


Growing Barney for the next loaf.. the little one is to be Barbara, a gift for my friend going back to Melbourne.


Barberry was quite a handsome cranberry & walnut loaf. 

I mishmashed the recipe on figjam & lime cordial (the most amazing bread blog) and the one in the book. He is 1/4 spelt, 3/4 white, a handful each of cranberries and walnut, and a generous sprinkle of cinnamon. Needless to say the house smelled simply incredible as this baked. 



Barberry's crust was just the right chewiness and the inside was light and fluffy. I adore the purple colour from the walnuts and the sweet tang from the cranberries. Hands down the best loaf I've made so far! Viva la Barney 2.0!

Saturday 6 January 2018

East Timor 2011



Going back to East Timor brought back a lot of memories from our last trip. We did a pretty epic road trip out to the eastern end of Timor. Some of these photos were taken by Jade and some taken by me - it's hard to remember who was pressing the button!

The route we followed was Dili - Baucau - Tutuala - Jaco Island - Com - Dili

Dili to Baucau

Jesus backside beach  


Leaving Dili on the coastal road heading east 






Baucau mercado - an abandoned old Portugese building 


The incredible freshwater pool at the poussada, sadly we were in a hurry and didn't  get to swim here!


Random images from the road

The road was OK heading out of Baucau, except for the small incident when we got stuck in the middle of an armed convoy. The last part from Lospalos to Tutuala was epically bad though - steep, rocky downhills that tested our adrenaline reserves. We passed by countless small villages full of animals and children playing in the dust. We stopped in a couple of schools to distribute books and pens we had brought along, and were struck by the simplicity of Timorese country life.







Jaco island






Jaco island was one of the most magical places I have ever been. The water was so incredibly clear and the reef was just metres from the edge of the sand. A fisherman brought us across the short distance from Tutuala to Jaco and we spent the afternoon with the entire island to ourselves. Namiko managed to convince me to get into the water and see the coral, after which I had a strong desire to learn to swim. That is how, 17 years after I almost drowned in a pool, I started to learn to swim in 2011. In 2017, I really felt like my life came full circle when I went snorkelling in the Timorese ocean again. And it all started on this beautiful island.


Tutuala


We spent the night in Tutuala in tiny thatched huts run by the community initiative. The fisherman had caught our dinner and we had very simply roasted fish - incredibly fresh.






Com 
Com itself was becoming a beach resort town very rapidly, but the ocean near Com was just simply stunning.


We saw this abandoned building which was incredibly beautiful. It had such a strong haunted feeling that we wondered if people had died here.





On the last day we were in Dili, Namiko went for a dive and Jade & I chilled in town. At sunset we walked along the ocean and had some grilled fish. I think this was my last memory of Timor before we went back to Darwin





A few of my favourite faces










Dili, East Timor

I had spent a little time in Dili in 2011, before and after our road trip back then. Notable changes this time around include the invasion of Burger King all across the city (no other fast food chains though), the opening of Timor plaza (very fancy schmancy complex with shops and restaurants) and a lot more advertising for beer and mobile phones.

We drove out east towards Cristo Rei - apparently the second biggest Jesus status after Rio. A short walk later we were on top of the hill along with lots of mountain goats, several Indonesian tourists and some locals. It was Friday afternoon and everyone was out dancing in an awkward shuffling way, mostly looking bored.




We had a beach side drink at sunset.


Dinner at Restaurant Bidau followed. Lots of fresh fish including a delicious tom yum soup.



One of our delicious breakfasts - scrambled eggs and tropical fruit salad with yoghurt made by the Beachside hotel. Doll from Boneca on Atauro in the background, because we couldn't find Pengy!


On our last morning Pengy joined us for fresh pineapple & passionfruit, avocado feta smash and tomato salsa on toast. It was very hipsteriffic.




Beach road, near the embassy district.


A fancy-ola dinner at Timor plaza.



Clearly the highlight of Dili - a lift at Timor Plaza!



We also grabbed Portugese custard tarts from a bakery at Timor plaza. They looked great but sadly had congealed by the time we got them home, and reheating just wasn't the same.


This was one of the grossest things I've ever tasted. For some reason the photo was taken just in front of the red carved crocodile at Things & Stories.   

Crowds in front of the local supermarket on New years eve.


Fresh coconuts for $1.

My favourite photo of an airport, ever. There is only one flight per day.


Goodbye East Timor! I'll be back soon.