Wednesday 28 December 2022

Sourdough panettone

Even though I've had my sourdough starter Barney for more than 5 years, I never thought that I would actually make sourdough panettone, the 11/10 difficulty project that's been on the "To-do" list forever. Or rather.. the "To-dream" section.. 

Until this year, when I mentioned offhand to S a week before Christmas that I've been thinking about making sourdough panettones for a while.. 

The next day I got a message from his mother in Italy, "So I heard you are planning to make panettone. What ingredients should I prepare?" 

It was a classic face palm moment, how I adore S and his big mouth. What on earth was I getting myself into? I knew that I couldn't spend half of the Christmas holiday taking over his mother's kitchen baking panettones, which meant I have to do it in Toronto... 

Hurdle 1: It would be easy to find panettone paper moulds in a big city like Toronto, right? Wrong. Couldn't find it anywhere. 

No worries, I have Amazon Prime next day delivery, right? Wrong. Every option was going to get delivered on Dec 17, just 4 days before I left Toronto, leaving me no time to do a practice run... 

In a comical twist I bought the wrong sized papers from Amazon. I thought "large" meant that I could make one large one and that was it. Instead 10 mini papers showed up... right, I'll change to recipe to mini panettones, more cute anyway, right?  

Hurdle 2: I didn't realise until 4 days before the planned bake day that I was supposed to make a separate stiff starter, a pasta madre, and feed it for 1-2 weeks. From reading the Internet, the stiff starter increase the strength and capacity of the sourdough, just so that it can consume large amounts of "stuff" and still rise. Right, I'll just have to train up Barney, he's a good boy, right? I can do it in 4 days, right?? (Insert several horror face emojis here) 

Hurdle 3: All the recipes I saw involve mixing in a Kitchenaid for a long time, the dough looked soupy and soft. How was I supposed to mix it by hand? Luckily my friend has a Kitchenaid and I begged her to look through her cupboards for the dough hook she's never used. 

All right, after all that, let's get started on the pictorial journey of the panettones. 

First thing I did was make candied orange and lemon peel. I actually really enjoyed making this (and of course, eating them straight out of the jar). It's simply peeling the skin, blanching it 3 times to remove bitterness then simmering in syrup for an hour till reduced, then drying on a piece of baking paper till they are crystallised and delicious. 

After feeding my stiff sourdough for 4 days it was time to measure. There are two doughs done on sequential days, so each day started with measuring out all the ingredients and placing them in containers so I could easily transport them to my friend's place. 


This was the first dough at the end of the mixing on day one (about 45 minutes of mixing). It doesn't look like much, in fact I was wondering why the dough ball was so small. It said to leave it overnight 18 - 24hrs till tripled, so I wasn't worried about it too much.  


My friend was not staying at her place so nobody was watching the dough rise. After 18 hours we got back to her place, and the dough was HUGE! It had at least quadrupled in volume.. Punching it down was also super satisfying. 

The ingredients ready for the second dough, looks remarkably like the first dough prep but today there were also the fruit. 



Adding in the raisins soaked in rum overnight and orange/lemon peel at the end of mixing the second dough (about an hour of mixing) 


When to know when the kneading was enough? It didn't feel super elastic to me, but I had zero experience in making this kind of dough. I knew that both under- and over- kneading would be disastrous. I had to trust my instinct and I knew that once I added the fruit and went home, there would be no more mixing... 


I went home, divided and shaped the dough, inserted the skewers into the mould and placed the impossibly sticky dough balls inside them. They did not look like any Youtube videos I had watched, the dough was very hard to handle and I had to move very swiftly (in retrospect I realised because the butter was warming too much). I was glad just to get them in there in some kind of round ball shape... 


The recipe says to rise for 10 - 12 hours, so I thought shaping at 9pm would be well timed for a morning bake. At 4:30am (just 6.5hrs) I woke up from a nightmare that the dough had over-risen. I ran into the kitchen and they had already crowned! I shoved them into the fridge and resumed sleeping. 


Just before baking with a little dab of butter in the middle 


As soon as they came out, I had the fun activity of trying to flip hot dough balls upside down so that they could hang by their skewer bottoms - this is because panettone is so heavy with "stuff" that otherwise it will collapse on itself during cooling. 30 seconds before it starts to collapse! the internet said. I certainly didn't manage to get all of them flipped by 30 seconds, but I did a lot of laughing and yelping as the skewers had minds of their own when I tried to flip them.  


Here they are after a day of cooling, aren't they just gorgeous? 


A different view of them with the skewers removed. 


So pretty! I couldn't stop swooning over how beautiful they were. 


Here they are, three of them packaged up ready to go to Italy. Unfortunately being so tied up in the recipe, I had paid no attention to how I would actually transport them. I ended up cutting up Amazon Prime bubble wrap bags and using them as cushioning. 


One would have thought that I would have taken a billion crumb shots, but alas I did not. this was the only one that I managed in between three panettones we ate during Christmas 


The fourth one went with my friend who supplied the Kitchenaid to her family Christmas. She took a much better picture of the crumb!  


Here we are slicing the last panettone.. does anyone know why the part next to the paper is extra delicious? 

I'm so glad I did this project, it was hands down the most crazy project I have ever done, but it was super rewarding. This is what I wrote in my journal when it was all finished. 

This is the story of love. 

To bake and to share, to prepare something for someone, is the language of love. 

To believe that such a complicated recipe would work, is the power of love. 

Friday 2 December 2022

In My Kitchen: December 2022

December? Can anyone believe it's December?? It's been such a momentous year for me, such a "big year" for me & S. Let's take a look in the kitchen together... 

I love the fall season for all its strange and wonderful pumpkins and gourds. This is a spaghetti squash that we bought on our big road trip in October (at Cricklewood farm). I kept him in the fridge for a couple of weeks till S came to Toronto for the semester break. I only came to know of them last year in France and I'm fascinated by their texture. 

And here is his brother in France, an organic potimarron we bought from the organic market on Raspail on Sundays, such a wonderful market. The prices are eyewatering but the produce is absolutely stunning. 

Back to baking...

I'm finally getting back into baking projects after a few months of "just baking bread". Here was the first project, traditional Jewish knishes stuffed with potato and caramelised leek. My colleague asked for these because her grandma had made them for her when she was young. 

This was a bunch of scrolls I made for the end of term party at work. The one on the left is apple cinnamon, and the one on the right is pistachio cardamom. Delicious flavour combos! 

Winter = baguettes. Living in Canada = no baguettes. Solution? Bake your own sourdough baguettes!

This was the sourdough turkey I made for Thanksgiving, I think the bread over-rose and the body became too globular but it was cute anyway, my favourite part was tying up the legs! 

A weekend away... 

Long time readers of IMK may remember Pengy who is a soft toy that my Toronto friend gave me in 2017. Pengy has been away on trips with us to many countries. We finally managed to get away together again recently, to small town Ontario for the weekend. Of course we stopped off at a giant Asian supermarket for snacks - there's glutinous rice crackers, mochi, almond cookies, spicy gluten strips, hot & spicy "hotpot" and noodles, jackfruit pickle and "weird" flavoured broad beans.  

We stayed for the weekend in Exeter where there is an adorable rural village bakery called The White Squirrel. I couldn't resist the little knitted pumpkin. For breakfast we had a peach galette, traditional German style soft pretzel and a parmesan black pepper focaccia. Everything was delicious! 

We also enjoyed some local cheese, a sheep's milk Gouda that was sharp and tangy..

Back to Paris...

And right now I'm visiting S in Paris. I am absolutely dumbstruck by how delicious everything is, including the 1 euro baguette from Eric Kayser - a chain, but a delicious chain nevertheless - just downstairs, 90 seconds walk from the front door. I'm also super impressed that the coffee at our local - Le Standard, a very chichi traditional French bistro - is absolutely on point. Dark, aromatic and perfect for delivering a dose of sunshine in gloomy wintery Paris. And only costs 1.6 euros to boot. In comparison, coffee in a "proper cafe" is generally over $5 Canadian!  


A grainy baguette, from another favourite local boulangerie, Le Fournil de Guillaume. I had to look it up on Google since I only know it by location!


Ah, when I'm in Paris my diet consists of only two food groups... bread and pastries! 

The curveball..



It was my second time doing Nanowrimo (National Novel Writing Month), a US based thing but with a community all around the world. I didn't write a novel this time but used the month as a motivation to write 50,000 words in November. I wrote about patient stories mainly and did some exploring of themes surrounding death. It was a really interesting and enriching experience and I only had a few days where I felt blocked. I hope I can keep writing as the year goes on! 

I'm sending this to Sherry of Sherry's Pickings who hosts the monthly In My Kitchen series - thanks for hosting Sherry and Merry Christmas everyone!

Thursday 1 December 2022

A snippet from November's writing

Not infrequently, we get palliative care consults to talk to patients about “dying”.  


Some of these are very obvious requests. The patient has progressive cancer, the cancer is spreading throughout the body and “taking over” their life. The patient has failure of a vital organ and it deteriorates to the point of not being able to sustain organ function. In these cases, it is clear what the palliative care team’s involvement is. As the active treatments taper off, the palliative care side of things become dominant. We focus more on the patients’ comfort, their symptoms and on doing what we can to achieve a comfortable dignified death. 


But some of our palliative care consults are not so obvious. It is hard to peel back what is behind the requests sometimes. What does it mean when someone who is not “obviously” dying requests palliative care consultation to talk about dying? How do we understand what it really means when patients say that they have “had enough”?  


I once saw a lady who had been in hospital for five months after having a double lung transplant. Her story I will tell another day. She was well and truly fed up with the hospital. She hadn’t slept well for months, she was sick of being woken up every night by the nurses who wanted to check her blood pressure. She was sick of all the blood tests, her arms never having the opportunity to recover when they were being poked and prodded all the time. She was sick of all the doctors not talking to each other and asking her the same questions all the time. 


She had been thinking about dying for well over a month when she insisted to the lung transplant team that she wanted to talk to palliative care. They told her that she was doing “too well” for palliative care, and that she didn’t really need palliative care. After all, wasn’t she “recovering” from her transplant? She insisted and eventually they relented. 


When I met her, we talked about the options going forward. We talked about Medical Assistance In Dying (MAID), and what it involves. Once she understood what it would really look like, she said she didn’t want MAID. We talked about best supportive care, of stopping her active treatments and allowing her life to take its natural course. Once she understood what it would look like to stop her anti rejection meds and to reject her transplanted lungs in a “natural” state, she said she didn’t want to go ahead with best supportive care either. Well, what was left?  She was sick of the hospital, but she didn’t want to die either. We talked about rehab and going home, and eventually that was where we left it. We talked together to her daughter who said she was going to buy a sofa bed and move into her apartment to help once she was discharged. 


It sounds like a “funny” story that one could be asking for palliative care so as to consider the options for dying, and then end up with the conclusion of going to rehab. But this is very real for many patients. After all, how do we know what dying involves if we don’t explore what dying means? 


This brings me to the next question, what does it mean to ask for MAID? 


In the old days, there was no Medical Assistance In Dying. Essentially, it was illegal to give any medications to hasten someone’s death. One could lose one’s medical licence, or worse, end up in jail, for helping someone to hasten their own death. In the countries where it did not exist, it became a clandestine operation that some patients took into their own hands by contacting Euthanasia communities in other countries where it was legal. Patients with cancer flew across the world to access MAID-equivalents in countries where they could access it. 


Then MAID was legalised in Canada and the whole landscape of dying changed. Patients with a foreseeable death were permitted to apply for MAID once they met certain criteria. But it was an arduous process. They had to sign a form, undergo two separate independent assessments by “MAID clinicians”, doctors who were trained to assess intent and suitability for MAID. The patients had to be of sound mind, not confused, able to make their own decisions and not be coerced by others. They had to prove that their illness was life-limiting, which was often hard to determine since doctors usually erred on the conservative side if the exact prognosis was not clear. The cloudy line of “foreseeable death” was drawn on the question of whether they were likely going to die in the next six months. They had to discuss their suffering, whether it be physical or psychological. Finally after all these conditions were met, they had a long ten day cooling off period before it could finally take place. 


Only certain patients were able to access MAID due to all these logistical hurdles. Many of them were discouraged by the complexities and difficulties. Some became confused and couldn’t sign the forms correctly. Others had to sacrifice their pain medications just in case they were too drowsy to ensure that MAID went ahead. The ten day cooling off period also posed problems for people - some died in pain, uncomfortable and not in the way that they wanted. There were many frustrations in the process. 


Until now, things have changed. The government passed a new bill in March 2022 that allows a far more liberal interpretation of the MAID rules. Under the current rules, people are able to access MAID if they have a serious health condition, even if it may not imminently lead to death. 


Mr T was in the ICU when the ICU team sent a palliative care consult request. “Patient asking for MAID” was all it said. It was confusing since palliative care is a different service to the MAID team. 


The computer system showed that he was admitted with chest pain due to esophagitis. Unable to glean any more information from the chart, I headed to the ICU to talk with Mr T. He was lying in the ICU bed in a hospital gown, attached to the monitor and a bag of IV fluids. 


“Tell me about what brought you here.” I asked Mr T. 


“Mmmm…” He said. 


After a long pause I wondered what was going on. I didn’t recognise the heritage of his name but I wondered if perhaps he couldn’t understand English well. 


“Would you like an interpreter?” I asked. 


“Mmmm… No need.” He said with a very soft sing-song voice. 


“What happened to bring you to the hospital?” I asked him again. 


“Mmmm… I had chest pain.” He pointed to the centre of his chest. “Here, very bad.” 


“I couldn’t swallow.” He said, “Mmmm… swallowing was painful. Very painful.” 


“Did something happen to bring that on?” I asked. 


“Mmmm… I take too much.” He said. “Too much oil.” 


“Oil?” I wondered if I had heard wrong, struggling to remember if it was written in the chart that he was taking some kind of oil.


“CBD oil.” He looked down at his hands, “My friends told me it’s good for relaxing.”


“I see, and how much CBD oil?” I asked. Then I realised I had no idea what the normal dose of CBD oil was. 


“Mmm…. a lot.” He said, “I wanted to relax. Relax a lot.” 


He had taken so much CBD oil that it had burned the wall of his oesophagus and given him oesophagitis. 


Then he told me about how he had developed a severe unrelenting headache earlier in the year, and after seeing several different doctors finally got a scan of the head. The scan showed a benign tumour in the pituitary gland, pressing on the nerves behind the eyes. The pressure from the tumour caused him to have blurry vision. It affected his life badly, especially as he was unable to prepare food because of the vision. 


He went to see a neurosurgeon who told him he needed an operation to remove the pituitary tumour. He was afraid of what might happen, especially since he had no one to look after him. After he saw several more specialists, he opted to have radiation therapy instead to shrink the tumour. 


“Mmmm… I want to die.” He said, “Can you help me?” 


“Can you tell me more about what is behind that wish?” I asked him. 


“Mmmm… I just want to die.” He said, “Can you help me?”


“I would like to find out a bit more about your social situation.” I asked him, “Can you tell me about your family?” 


“Mmmm…” A long pause followed. “Not necessary.” 


“Who is close to you?” 


“Mmmm…” He looked away. “Nobody.” 


“What do you do for work?” I asked. 


“Mmmm…” He fiddled with the sheets. “ODSP.” ODSP stands for the Ontario Disability Support Program. 


“I see.” I said, “In case something happens to you, who would we call? Who is your next of kin?” I tried a different track. 


“Mmmm… Nobody.” He replied, “Mmmm… I just want to die. Can you help me die?” 


“Can you tell me more about why you want to die?” 


“Mmmm… I am alone. I have nobody.” He said, 


“I just want to die.” He repeated, “Life is hard. Too hard.” 


I felt puzzled by his request. His brain tumour was benign. It wasn’t cancerous and it was not going to spread throughout the body. The location was bad, for sure, affecting his vision, but it wasn’t something that would imminently take his life. 


“Mmmm… Did you bring the forms?” He asked suddenly. 


“Forms?”


“Forms, for dying.” He said firmly.


“I’m very sorry, I’m from the palliative care service.” I said, “I’m not from the team that organises dying. That’s the MAID team, that stands for Medical Assistance In Dying.” 


“Mmmm… I don’t care.” He said, nodding vigorously. “I just need the forms. Can you bring the forms?” 


“Mr T, I understand that you want the forms, but I’m not sure that you would be eligible for MAID.” I said, “I’m not sure that your illness qualifies for MAID, since it is a benign tumour you have in the brain.” 


“But…” He trailed off, “Other people on ODSP have died by MAID. Mmmm… it’s possible. Definitely possible.” 


“My friend, he died by MAID.” He said. 


“I understand, your friend may have been in a different situation.” I said gently, “In your situation, I’m not sure you can get MAID, but I can certainly ask the MAID team to come and see you.” 


“Mmmm… Life is too hard.” He said, “I have no one, I don’t know anybody, no-one cares if I am dead or not.” 


“Mmmm… I don’t have enough money on ODSP.” He continued, “I’m always hungry. I don’t want to live like this. Mmmm… isn’t that enough?” 


I felt heartbroken for this man. He seemed like a nice man. What had happened to him along the way to derail his life? Where were the people that loved him? 


I apologised to him for not being able to help him with MAID. He seemed angry at me and pulled the blanket over his head. I asked him if there was anything else I could do to help him and he reached one hand out from under the blanket to wave me away. 


I spoke to the ICU team and asked them to get psychiatry to see him. Perhaps he was depressed? I thought. I also asked social work to see him, perhaps it was a precarious housing situation that made him want to die? 


A few days later, he had recovered from the oesophagitis that was caused by the CBD oil and was discharged home. I never saw him again, but by chance noticed later that he had presented to the emergency department ten days after I saw him, complaining of dizziness because he had very little to eat. 


What is the role of MAID in patients like this? As doctors, we are so accustomed to breaking down problems into “manageable chunks” so that we can “fix them”. But how do we fix a whole life? What do we do about patients who are lonely, socially isolated and estranged from families? Perhaps they are sad about the way that their lives have worked out. Perhaps they are struggling to live on the meagre government pensions. Perhaps they have unsafe or insecure living circumstances. At what point can we say that the patient is “suffering enough” to be allowed to die by MAID? It really begs us to consider this question as a society. Should the marginalised, homeless or socially disadvantaged population be allowed to pursue active death due to the condition of their life? Are we prematurely taking away the chance for people to “recover” from these episodes in life? And who are we to judge that their quality of life is so poor that they can be medically assisted to die? 


I have no answers, only questions.


Wednesday 2 November 2022

In My Kitchen: November 2022

I cannot believe I just typed November! October was an incredibly beautiful month of fall in Toronto, the vivid and vibrant changing leaves are my favourite thing about living in Canada! 

In my kitchen this month... 

Let's begin with this most simple of meals, pasta with chickpeas and veggies. S and I have been having Sunday lunch in Toronto / dinner in Paris. It's a nice way for us to unwind at the end of the week with a glass of wine and reconnect by cooking something together. 



I've been doing a lot of baking this month since my dad has been visiting, he's been doing all the food shopping / meal preparation and my only responsibility is for the bread we have for breakfast everyday. I've been trying out different scoring patterns. 


Here I was inspired by the shape of a rose


I made this pumpkin bread for Canadian Thanksgiving. I couldn't find any kitchen string since I think everybody had bought some for tying up turkey! I used garden twine instead and it worked surprisingly well, though some people may have gotten some extra fibre... My favourite part about making the bread was stealing a stem from a zucchini! 


Take two, used a walnut for the stem instead and used more pumpkin (about 25% by weight). I think this scoring worked out better. 


Here's a sneak peek inside the pumpkin, the bread had a beautiful orange hue and had a wonderful fluffy texture, stuffed with pepitas.  

On the road... 


I took my dad and his partner on a big road trip in October. I was going to Montreal for a conference so we made a trip out of it - we went to the Thousand Islands region, Montreal, Quebec City and stopped off in Ottawa on the way back. There were lots of farms along the way (we took Highway 2, the "old" road passing through small communities) and here we saw some weird and wonderful gourds at one of the roadside stalls. 


A rice cooker is essential for all Chinese families on road trips. Not only can one cook rice but it is also used as an impromptu pot for cooking all sorts of things, like soba! Here we had the soba with home made radish & carrot pickles, and a topping of pork & shiitake mushrooms slow cooked in soy sauce and bean sauce. 


Not strictly in my kitchen, but take a look at this incredible poutine we had along the way, in a fromagerie near the original home of poutine in Drummondville, Quebec. The cheese was fresh and squeaky, the gravy a little on the salty side, but the fries were perfect - some were crispy and crunchy, others were saturated in gravy. Delicious!


And who can visit Montreal without going to get bagels? There's been a big rivalry between St Viateur and Fairmount, I must say I prefer St Viateur by far. The Montreal bagel is a little more dense and sweeter than the New York bagel, as it is cooked in honey water. They are simply incredible when warm straight out of the wood fired oven. 


This was a gorgeous soft brie cheese we picked up at the fromagerie in the middle of nowhere in Quebec. As good as the cheese in France! 


I bought some cranberries thinking they could be eaten as a snack. No idea they would be so sour! I cooked them with some honeycrisp apple (a Canadian specialty), and the colour was incredible!


After our long road trip of chasing the autumn leaves, we got back to Toronto just in time for Halloween. Here I tried cutting a skull shape into my bread but maybe he looks like a friendly one! 

Finally, my curve ball this month is one of the hundreds of photos I took on the road trip of the beautiful leaves... here was sunrise at Gananoque, the heart of the Thousand Islands. 


The sun rising over the St Lawrence river turned this maple tree the most extraordinary colour. Nature is just wonderful. 

I am sending this to Sherry of Sherry's Pickings who hosts the monthly In My Kitchen series. Thanks Sherry and have a good month everyone! 

Sunday 2 October 2022

In My Kitchen: October 2022

One quarter of my fellowship year in Toronto has passed, isn't that just crazy? September was an intense month - S' mother came to visit us, my dad decided last minute to fly over from Australia, and then S went back to France for the first academic semester. We are back to long distance mode which is like a throw-back to the previous season of our relationship!   

The Zucchini Dinner

I love themed dinners and the idea of using one vegetable as the star ingredient... We asked S' mother to choose her favourite vegetable and she chose zucchini. We had a lot of fun planning out this special menu...  

Try asking a mathematician how many zucchinis one needs for a zucchini dinner!

These beautiful zucchini flowers were found by my friend at some gourmet shop somewhere.. 


The first course was my own sourdough, accompanied by slow roasted zucchini with balsalmic glaze. These were mouth in the melt tender and succulent after being roasted for 1.5 hours at low heat. 


The second course was the floral course. We made zucchini roses with thin slices of zucchini, and stuffed some zucchini flowers with a buffalo mozzarella and feta filling. The basil over the top came from our balcony garden.  


The third course was tofu and zucchini balls along with zucchini pickles. I've learned that pickles are such a quick addition to any meal, the tartness and crunchiness really lightening whatever you eat.  I would have finished with a zucchini chocolate cake but both S and his mum are not into sweets, so we had some fruit instead (not zucchini!)

Other adventures in the kitchen... 


Some extraordinary heirloom tomatoes we got from the Niagara region ... 


While the parentals were visiting, we all got together to make dumplings. It was a fun family activity and I can see why it's such a great Chinese family tradition. 


S and I made these fresh pork mooncakes on the last day he was in Toronto for the Mid Autumn festival. While most mooncakes people know about have a sweet sticky filling, I'm from Shanghai where we eat pork filled mooncakes.  


We made this short crust for the mooncakes, which was super interesting to make - two doughs incorporated together and laminated, kind of like a rough puff. 


This was not technically in my kitchen, but I just couldn't leave it out - What a lobster mountain! The one behind it is a crab mountain, and the fries at the bottom are the best, so umami and so crunchy... 


I had no idea that there were these grapes called Concord grapes in Ontario. E made a cake with them and also made a kind of grape confit to go over the top. It was our last musical reunion for a while until S comes back.. our little group has been having a lot of fun playing through the middle Beethoven string quartets. 



And well, it just wouldn't be my IMK without a loaf of sourdough, I'm experimenting with the scoring patterns again... 

This month's curveball... 

Ta-da! I finished this jigsaw just before the parentals got here. It was so much fun to do! I wanted my first jigsaw in Canada to be a Canadian one, and this one is of an Indigenous totem pole. I'm taking a break from jigsaws now since we don't have enough space for me to spread out (I was doing it on the dining table).  

I'm sending this to Sherry of Sherry's Pickings who hosts the monthly In My Kitchen series - thanks Sherry and have a good month everyone!