In January 2011, my dad and I drove from Sydney to Darwin. It was to mark the beginning of a remarkable year that set Darwin in my heart. We talked about the road trip for years afterwards, and so it was only natural that we should set out on another one, this time via "the long way".
The grand route:
Darwin -- Katherine -- Tennant Creek -- Alice Springs -- Coober Pedy -- Adelaide -- Kangaroo Island -- Great Ocean Road -- Melbourne -- Sydney
Day 1: Darwin - Katherine
On a wonderful sunny day, we said goodbye to 288 Casuarina Drive where I lived for a year, and headed out of town. The real estate agent was in Howard Springs so after we dropped off the keys, we headed to the actual spring for lunch.
This place had been a R&R spot for the soldiers in World War II, and it's easy to see why.
This part of the trip was really the greatest hits of the NT. Edith falls is one of my very favourite places dating back to when I visited in 2011 and camped there.
In the wet season, the falls are closed for swimming due to high water levels and risk of salties. The last croc had been seen in February though, so we sat pretty close to the edge and soaked up the incredible scenery.
We were pretty much the only people there, and the reflections on this particular day were just spectacular.
We stopped in Katherine on our first night and went out to Tindal air force base to play piano duets with my friend Maggy. The piano was in the deserted chapel.
We met many years ago when I lived in Darwin last time and by chance we were both living in the NT again! We played the Spanish dances and Polish dances by Moszkowski, some really wonderful repertoire for the piano duet.
There were so many stars that night, it was really like being in the outback again.
Day 2: Katherine - Tennant Creek
On the second day, we drove from Katherine to Tennant Creek. About an hour out of Katherine, we spent a few enjoyable hours at Bitter springs, my favourite spring in Mataranka.
Again it was pretty much deserted, and we chatted with a Canadian couple from near Windsor, Ontario. The water was incredibly clear like the other times I've been, the underwater grass bright and lively.
It was also water lily season, and we saw these lilies everywhere in the Top End.
Even managed to drop Pengy into bitter spring whilst trying to take a photo..
We stopped off in Daly Waters for lunch next to the wrecked plane, then powered through all the way to Tennant Creek. I had forgotten how much of a hole Tennant is - we basically moved our things inside and stayed inside. Outside felt pretty scary, with lots of youths wandering the streets and shouting at each other. It didn't help that our motel was right behind a bottle shop.
Day 3: Tennant Creek - Alice Springs
On the third day, we drove from Tennant to Alice. This was quite a leisurely day, and we stopped off at the Devil's marbles for a while.
We passed by this place last time but didn't stop for much more than a photo. It has since been revamped as a tourist attraction with a proper parking lot and walking trails. We were also lucky that a big tour bus had just left as we were pulling in, so we again had the whole place pretty much to ourselves. These rocks were formed by the erosion of weather, and are a great reminder of just how harsh the desert is. Huge round boulders of every shape and size are dotted across the landscape, a pretty mysterious sight.
Some of the rocks were cracked and growing grass!
In Alice, it felt like the real desert. The air was so dry here, and the landscapes felt broader than ever.
Day 5: Alice Springs - Coober Pedy
Erldunda roadhouse is quite a sight – heaps of tour buses congregate here and as a result the shop at the servo is crowded with the middle aged khaki cut-off crowd. There is even an emu farm for extra brownie points. I don’t remember it being so well-done-up the last time we were in the area, but I guess it brings in plenty of cash when it charges close to $2/L for unleaded petrol.
The grand route:
Darwin -- Katherine -- Tennant Creek -- Alice Springs -- Coober Pedy -- Adelaide -- Kangaroo Island -- Great Ocean Road -- Melbourne -- Sydney
Day 1: Darwin - Katherine
On a wonderful sunny day, we said goodbye to 288 Casuarina Drive where I lived for a year, and headed out of town. The real estate agent was in Howard Springs so after we dropped off the keys, we headed to the actual spring for lunch.
This place had been a R&R spot for the soldiers in World War II, and it's easy to see why.
This part of the trip was really the greatest hits of the NT. Edith falls is one of my very favourite places dating back to when I visited in 2011 and camped there.
In the wet season, the falls are closed for swimming due to high water levels and risk of salties. The last croc had been seen in February though, so we sat pretty close to the edge and soaked up the incredible scenery.
We were pretty much the only people there, and the reflections on this particular day were just spectacular.
We stopped in Katherine on our first night and went out to Tindal air force base to play piano duets with my friend Maggy. The piano was in the deserted chapel.
We met many years ago when I lived in Darwin last time and by chance we were both living in the NT again! We played the Spanish dances and Polish dances by Moszkowski, some really wonderful repertoire for the piano duet.
There were so many stars that night, it was really like being in the outback again.
Day 2: Katherine - Tennant Creek
On the second day, we drove from Katherine to Tennant Creek. About an hour out of Katherine, we spent a few enjoyable hours at Bitter springs, my favourite spring in Mataranka.
Again it was pretty much deserted, and we chatted with a Canadian couple from near Windsor, Ontario. The water was incredibly clear like the other times I've been, the underwater grass bright and lively.
It was also water lily season, and we saw these lilies everywhere in the Top End.
Even managed to drop Pengy into bitter spring whilst trying to take a photo..
We stopped off in Daly Waters for lunch next to the wrecked plane, then powered through all the way to Tennant Creek. I had forgotten how much of a hole Tennant is - we basically moved our things inside and stayed inside. Outside felt pretty scary, with lots of youths wandering the streets and shouting at each other. It didn't help that our motel was right behind a bottle shop.
Day 3: Tennant Creek - Alice Springs
On the third day, we drove from Tennant to Alice. This was quite a leisurely day, and we stopped off at the Devil's marbles for a while.
We passed by this place last time but didn't stop for much more than a photo. It has since been revamped as a tourist attraction with a proper parking lot and walking trails. We were also lucky that a big tour bus had just left as we were pulling in, so we again had the whole place pretty much to ourselves. These rocks were formed by the erosion of weather, and are a great reminder of just how harsh the desert is. Huge round boulders of every shape and size are dotted across the landscape, a pretty mysterious sight.
Some of the rocks were cracked and growing grass!
One of the best
things about going on a long road trip is seeing the transition of
landscapes. As we drove south, the tropics receded away and the
desert crept upon us. Before we knew it, that lush vibrant green of
the wet season had gone and we were amongst the dry sparse desert of
central Australia. Devil’s marbles were really the beginning of
that type of desert colours coming through, and we also adored the
desert wildflowers around there.
In Alice, it felt like the real desert. The air was so dry here, and the landscapes felt broader than ever.
Day 4: Alice Springs
On the fourth day, we took a day trip out to the West Macdonnell ranges.
Simpson’s gap is
a spectacular break in a never-ending mountain range.
It made one wonder – why is there a gap right there and not anywhere else? And how can water be so powerful and destructive?
It made one wonder – why is there a gap right there and not anywhere else? And how can water be so powerful and destructive?
Later
we visited Ellery big hole, where I had hoped to swim, but the water
was far too cold.
I
adore the red rock of the desert. It feels to me like the real
Australia.
Day 5: Alice Springs - Coober Pedy
Erldunda roadhouse is quite a sight – heaps of tour buses congregate here and as a result the shop at the servo is crowded with the middle aged khaki cut-off crowd. There is even an emu farm for extra brownie points. I don’t remember it being so well-done-up the last time we were in the area, but I guess it brings in plenty of cash when it charges close to $2/L for unleaded petrol.
Heading
further south, the drive is through fairly barren land. The trees get
shorter and shorter until they are shrubs, and finally very little
grass at all. Rocks dot the horizon for as long as one can see. We
spied a dingo, a wild camel, and finally a wild emu.
The wild emu is lean with impossibly long legs, it has a spirit so
totally different to the fat lazy emus at Erldunda roadhouse. It sees
us coming and starts to run, the strides increasing in length as it
bounds away from us at an incredible speed. We were really struck by
the sight of this beautiful creature.
No comments:
Post a Comment